Today I want to go to Ribeiro do João and walk back to Vila do Maio. It’s not as hot as yesterday, but I’m not as lucky to catch an aluguer as yesterday. I find one heading to Ribeiro do João, but the driver takes his time doing his commissions in the capital. When he finally drives off, he drives to the hospital where there are two more passengers supposed to wait wanting to get to Ribeiro. We have to wait for another quarter of an hour or so, after I have already waited about 40 minutes in the first place. Then the driver finally gives in as the passengers are not turning up and we drive off, yet, only after he has stopped another time to buy something at the wholesale shop.
From Ribeiro dom João leads a small path down to the coast. This time the coast is rockier than the last time, when flat bushland changed into sandy beaches. Dominique from Casa Evora had told me that some of the coastline looked like Brittany. Well, this reminds me of Brittany. Only the beaches are not white, neither black. Their mixed again. The volcanic black sand merges with the white sand again and forms wonderful patterns.
I have to climb up a few times up the rocks and there isn’t even a path visible on maps.me – but I think I cannot miss my way if I just follow the coastline. I see a turtle shell and ask myself whether it died a natural death. The Cape Verde islands are well known for their turtle population. In spring you see turtles laying eggs and in early autumn the small ones leave their eggs and make it to the sea.
I come to one fishing hamlet where there are a few boats, but they seem not to have seen water for a long time, rather are they surfing the sand dunes.
There is one fisherman, who I pass. He packs up his tackle and walks off in the opposite direction. I also meet a few goats with their young. But then, suddenly, I catch a glimpse of a figure about a kilometer behind me walking in the same direction. After my Mindelo experience I’m all alert at once and speed up. There will be another 2.5km to walk on the beach – of course I always walk close to the waterfront where the sand is rather solid – much less tiring than in the dry soft sand. I try to reassure me that this person might as well be another hiker, as me, or a person from a village that has come to the beach because of one or another reason. Still, I’m worried, even though Martin and Caroline had assured me that it was safe to walk alone on the island. At its southernmost point the beach bends back to the west and after a while I notice that no one is following me anymore. I ease my pace but also notice a sharp pain in my right foot.
I still have to walk the rest of the way – there is no way to find any transport here. So, more slowly but still steadily I make it to the outskirts of Vila do Maio, on the wide and beautiful beach of Ponta Preta. There, on an outcrop, seems to be restaurant – Martin’s (again?). Thirsty and tired I go in. There’s a beautiful terrace overlooking the vast beach. It’s windy, but the wind soothes my sweaty back. I have two Guava drinks (has become my favourite) and a shrimp salad, on top a brownie dessert. The vanilla ice-cream tastes really artificial, and the shrimps are few and dry, but otherwise I like my dish.
I limp the rest of my way back to Casa Evora. This seems to be the better off part of Vila do Maio. Even though I’ve already had a meal I will not miss my caipis at Kaza Tropical!
No hiking the next day! My foot needs rest! On top one of my left foot’s nail bed’s is inflamed, so both feet somehow injured. The weather is not nice, either. It’s pretty fogg. For a moment I believe to be at the shores of lake Zug! Dominique tells me that, if the weather stays like this there will be no flight back to Praia tomorrow, as there is not flight-control system but the pilot as to land by VFR (visual flight rules). And to do this you need at least a visibility of 5 km. With this fog the visibility is reduced to about 2 km. But there will be a ferry on Sunday evening, and if there is no flight there will be no new guests and so I can stay another night. Well, this is Africa. Let’s see – luckily I do not have to catch any connecting flight. So, rather relaxed I spend the day reading, writing this blog. I also call my friend Ruth – and in the afternoon the sun even peeps out.
I wake up in the middle of the night and listen to the regular surf on the beach close-by. Later, it will be interrupted by the cock-crow. There’s no other sound whatsoever. My window is open and in comes the breeze from the sea. In Africa things get reduced to their essence. Often, it’s barely more than survival. Yet, in this reduction lays a strength, an incredible power. Even though I’m only a privileged observer, it has its impact on me. I’m thinking about many things. I’m recovering slowly. The sun is medicine, the simplicity soothing. After a while I fall back into the stillness of the night, listening to the surf …
There was a moon that shone onto the beach when I woke up. So, that means no fog, no clouds and probably my flight will take place. In fact, it’s an magnificant day – I would like to stay! I have a few morning hours to spend, have breakfast, a last swim in the crystal blue water. I find Martin on the beach and we exchange e-mail addresses – you never know when a sailor is needed. Then I pack up and am driven to the airport.
Dominique had told me one hour before take off would do – but at the airport they tell me to hurry up as check-in has almost been closed. So, I’m the second but last to check-in – and I’m not proud of it.
At security control they suspect me of having four! nail-clippers with me (I’ve got one.) They put up a fuss about those supposed four nail-clippers. They’re looking for them and I’ve to take out all my belongings from my handbag. They scan my notebook a second time – but they don’t find any four nail-clippers, and if so?
Afterwards it comes to my mind that I also keep a small magnifying glass in the same pocket as the nail-clipper. Maybe this had the effect of quadrupling the nail-clipper?
We board and once again it is really just a hop over to Praia on the island of Santiago. A flight time of 9 minutes! My luggage – luggage is said to be left behind sometimes – has arrived safely also this time and I’m happy and somehow got used to these island hopper flights. It was Rémy’s remark that these planes are able to fly even without propellers working that reassured me so much. My suspicion was also fostered by the fact that you cannot book these flights in Europe and I asked myself, why.
